Getting the 33 back on the road.

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sat Mar 15, 2014 8:34 pm

Hi.

I took my 33 off the road last September as it was MOT time and I knew it was going to fail on rust on the floorpan.
Now the weather is starting to pick up my intention is to do the necessary welding and get a fresh ticket so I can continue to use it as my daily driver. The engine hasn't been turned over since it came off the road so my question is this, what should I be doing before I attempt to start it? I was going to disconnect the fuel and spark and turn it over for a bit to pump some oil around. Anything else I should do? Check belts? Not stored a car this long before so I'm a bit unsure.

Cheers, Lee.

alfasuddriver · Post by **alfasuddriver** » Sat Mar 15, 2014 9:13 pm

Hi Lee,

Is your 33 fuel injected? I don't think it's a bad idea to get some oil circulating around the engine before you fire her up. You could disconnect the ignition module (under the ignition coil) and then crank the engine until the oil light goes out on the dashboard. Then reconnect the ignition module, let it start but don't rev it just let it tick over. That's how I'd go about it

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:18 pm

alfasuddriver wrote:Hi Lee,

Is your 33 fuel injected?

Thanks for the reply, and yes it is.

Good idea to let it tick over. I guess the tappets will need filling and will rattle like buggery for a bit.

How quickly does the octane go out of petrol? Would I benefit chucking some new in the tank or is 6 months not enough time for it to go off?

Post by **PETROLHEAD** » Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:36 pm

leaded would have lasted for an era, unleaded can turn much quicker, but you should be ok at 6mths, BUT, a gallon or two of fresh is always a good help, get the combustion back to where it should be an not wet the plugs trying!

a belt check wouldn't be a bad idea seeing as it has been static and not turned over, the tension would have been sat in one spot over time, so if possible, turn it over bit by bit and check for good but more importantly even tension and belt condition.

However, for a fire up, if they were good 6mths ago they should be ok for the purpose of getting her running again, and change them before using them in anger again, would be my own plan Lee.

cheers mate, best of luck, but i think you'll be fine

Post by **KevJTD** » Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:37 pm

i'd agree that cranking with the coil lead or crank sensor off at least until the oil light goes out is a good idea.

as for the fuel i've heard stories that unleaded goes "off" after as little as 3 months...

fill it with a super unleaded asap to regain some of the lost octane rating

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:50 pm

Cheers guys.

Should be getting this started in the next few weeks........I've been without a boxer too long. The 156 is all well and good but it aint the same.

alfasuddriver · Post by **alfasuddriver** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 12:10 am

Keep us posted, it's always good to see a boxer back on the road!

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 12:26 am

Certainly will. It'll more than likely turn into a rebuild thread with all my woes and much swearing

Post by **PETROLHEAD** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:03 am

Much like the rest of us then Lee! ha ha!

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:08 am

I've noticed

Johnboy · Post by **Johnboy** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:02 am

If ever a boxer deserved to be on the road its yours lee

good luck with the reduild ,agree with all of the above ! Get it running then put new belts on it

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 6:55 pm

Cheers John.

Hope to see yours on the same path soon now the garage is nearly there. Then I reckon a Spa reunion or blat over to the ring could be in order

Johnboy · Post by **Johnboy** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:23 pm

Yeah garage nearly done now thank god ,then I can bring my toys home at last!
Spa sounds like a plan and safer than the ring I think

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:39 pm

Johnboy wrote: Spa sounds like a plan and safer than the ring I think

Safer? What's your name and what have you done with Johnboy?

And anyhow, it's been a while since I've had a ride on a low loader

How is that 6 YEARS AGO?

Johnboy · Post by **Johnboy** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:02 pm

sorry
Six years

way to long ! Well if this new company that's taken over spaitalia is any good . Then maybe we should start planning for next year

Post by **PETROLHEAD** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:55 pm

You two need to warm up at Cadwell, and possibly Donnington too first.

Boxer Meet anyone?????

Johnboy · Post by **Johnboy** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:16 pm

Yeah good plan chap! But I'm way off yet

Post by **PETROLHEAD** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:04 pm

Boxer meet won't be till later in the year,

you'll be ready JB, and you Lee,

as ready as i will be!

Johnboy · Post by **Johnboy** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:17 pm

we shall see

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:28 pm

Hoping mine won't take too long once I get started (currently decorating the hallway to keep the missus sweet

)

Just don't want to come up against any nasty surprises.

What's the score with yours John? Much to do?

Johnboy · Post by **Johnboy** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:36 pm

Errrrrrr yes

rust plus lots of plans!lighter wider faster

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:43 pm

Johnboy wrote:Errrrrrr yes rust plus lots of plans!lighter wider faster

I should have known really

SteffenJ3316V · Post by **SteffenJ3316V** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:24 pm

Rust is pretty light

Johnboy · Post by **Johnboy** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 7:40 am

I don't know what you mean lee

This isn't going to be a quick rebuild because of my plans

Steffen
Your not wrong ! But when it's on jacking points, it's not very useful

AlfaCorseChris · Post by **AlfaCorseChris** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 7:52 am

Hi Lee,

any pictures of the problematic area on your 33 ?

As for John ....
We all know John Lennon - Let it Be !

....

well this one is John Lemmon - Let him Be !

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:23 am

Hi Chris.

No pictures yet but if I took a picture of the whole of the underside, that would be the problematic area

At a glance before hibernation it was jacking points, front chassis rail, sills in various points, rear vallance and a hole in the floor by the tank. It's always looked pretty solid so it was a surprise to find out what had been going on under the underseal.

AlfaCorseChris · Post by **AlfaCorseChris** » Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:32 am

underseal is overestimated IMO

yes it protects from stones and sound and heat, BUT, once infected, the moist and rust trapped in there get right to work

lee16v · Post by **lee16v** » Tue Mar 18, 2014 5:13 pm

Supercharged16v wrote:underseal is overestimated IMO

yes it protects from stones and sound and heat, BUT, once infected, the moist and rust trapped in there get right to work

Agree.

What types of protection do you guys use after repairs are done to the underside? I've had a look about but would appreciate a tried and tested recommendation from you hardened restorers/ re-builders.

Post by **KevJTD** » Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:54 pm

but without any protection the cars here wouldn't last one winter

Post by **PETROLHEAD** » Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:26 pm

The key to this is not just what product, but the prep and when to use them.

This is really tough i know, but in all honesty, if there is any suspicion at all regarding the underside, my advice would be to strip it!

The fear of "trapping" damp in, is serious and true enough, afterall, most underseals and stoneguards have a rubberised base to effect a waterproof layer that will deflect stones without chipping through, but the same properties will also conceal a damp patch and ensure it has a nice and pleasant environment to munch away uninterupted at your floor and sills etc etc

get the car high, flipped over, ramped, whatever and have a good poke around, and any area of loose, flakey, or damaged area of underseal you find, strip back as far as you feel you need to get to perfect condition material again, rust prime, zinc oxide etc, paint, underseal/stone guard again.

a combination of grinder knotted wire wheel, heat gun and sharp scraper, and copious amounts of time and elbow grease, is the ONLY way to reinstate the undercarriage protection back to where it needs to be i'm afraid.

no quick solution, no shortcuts, no magic products sadly, and its all just bloody hard horrible work! ha ha! sorry!

Classic Alfa Forums

Classic Alfa Forums

Getting the 33 back on the road.

Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.

Re: Getting the 33 back on the road.