33 coilovers

[smiffy 33]

These say they fit a 33 is this true.
Ta

[PETROLHEAD]

I fail to see how Smiffy, and even if they did i wouldn't be in a rush to fit them regardless of how cheap they appear to be.

The 80-003 number claims to fit Bora, Golf A3 etc etc, which is more likely, as they have a fork type bottom bracket onto the hub which these could slide into and nip up, but 33's have a fixed bracket, and need a pan of bearings to allow the steering to pull the strut within the spring, and these have no such allowance.

If they did a set to fit the bottom end of things, i.e with a 4 bolt bracket for the hub mounting, they would also need a steering arm connection point and a top mount such as pillar ball or bearing to allow it to rotate with the steering.


I'd say it looks doubtful mate


On the plus side, it may be saving you from your major dissappointment in a years time when they have shed all their paint and finish and rusted together like Titanics bog door!

These cheap kits really aren't worth the savings, they're generally crapped out once just out of warranty.



If you want coilover conversion, the back end can be done by using a one piece coilover unit,

like this

but you will need modified axle and body brackets welding in, like this

$_12 (1).JPG (19.3 KiB) Viewed 9288 times

and the fronts can be converted into coilovers by the likes of Gaz, Leda, etc etc

or even diy with weld on kits like this

Drop by and see my sud set up if you want some idea's mate.

[kammatic]

Shrew is right on these, tho cheap coil over kits are "ok" at very best..

the DIY kit is pretty good, you just have to take some time fitting to 33 strut as there is a bit of mismatch between strut outer diameter and coil over tube inner diameter,
im trying to find some pics of when I did mine years ago.. I will up load them when i find them
hope that helps. lib

[kammatic]

[kammatic]

As pics in last post and above,.. these are the first "version" of my coil overs.. not 100% how i want them but good enough to get going and teach myself what I needed to do. I have another pair of struts, im going to try doing the inverted steering arm trick to allow me to use a much longer threaded tube section - better ride height adjustment and spring options.

[PETROLHEAD]

Thanks Kam, great explanation and good job!


I take it those solid top mounts are on a pillow ball bearing?

[adsblacksud]

I have the same set up as Kammatic with koni yellows for the inserts.i
A word of note, I got the top mounts from compbrake as they list the 33 in their catalogue
The first set they sent had the bolt holes spaced incorrectly (possibly 33 Imola pattern)
The outside diameter of the second set was too high and needed turning down, so check before you order.

Thanks

Adam

[kammatic]

Hi Shrew,

Yep, the top mounts have a HUGE rose joint bearing in there to allow everything to go lock to lock.
The top mounts were actually for a mk1 or 2 escort ( cant recall which now ) , I turned them down in a lathe to get the outer diameter correct, then uses the late to mark the hole centers before drilling out.
Adam, I did find out after than Compbrake makes top mounts, I did kick myself for not finding out sooner and getting some.. however sounds like I would have had to modify them anyway, sorry to hear about your experiences with them.

cheers
Lib

[PETROLHEAD]

So there you go Smiffy, that's suspension covered,

NEXT!

[rsfruitbat]

I would be interested in seeing how you do the reverse arms because the taper will go the wrong way for the track rod end?

rsfruitbat

[kammatic]

hi rsfruitbat,

yep the track rod end taper will end up wrong way round.. i had two ideas... use a decent rose joint and bolt that into the steering arm after the tapered hole is drilled out to a straight hole.. Or.. being a bit cheeky...was going to just mount the track rod end up the other way and have it under the steering arm rather than on top !

[Oggie]

hi rsfruitbat,

yep the track rod end taper will end up wrong way round.. i had two ideas... use a decent rose joint and bolt that into the steering arm after the tapered hole is drilled out to a straight hole.. Or.. being a bit cheeky...was going to just mount the track rod end up the other way and have it under the steering arm rather than on top !

I have not long ago made my alignment adjustable using a compbrake 164 rose joints and making a 14mm course thread/14mm fine threaded rod inserted into the steering rack after removing 20mm off each end and locktite , so far okay and certainly helps not having to brake the tie rod end for adjustment. I drilled the taper out of the strut and used the 14mm bolt supplied with the kit. Took a while to get the adjustment right and there is very little room for toe in more than 5 degrees.