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I have a question about adjusting the negative camber out after lowering the car

OK.... looking at my pre school art work What bolt hole do you leave untouched to move the hub toward positive camber.

I did the drivers side only as illustrated but I think did it wrong, I left hole 4 untouched and filed hole 1 at 8 o'clock, hole 2 at 10 o'clock and 3 at 6 o'clock.
Doing it my way I've angled the hub away from the car which pulls on the driveshaft. I did a test drive and found I get a clicking noise while accelerating.

Should I have done it leaving hole 1 alone and filing holes 2,3 and 4 so the hub is turned toward the gearbox or does it not matter what hole is left alone ? How have you done it ?
I'm leaving some negative camber but want to reduce it.

I done mine the same as yours your clicking cv joint is just a worn joint drive shaft length should not effect outer joint

Hi don't you leave four , so it pivots on that? I'm sure one of the races will chime in

Why do you want to go to positive camber?

Even with max elongation of holes it will still be negative camber . And yes I left hole 4 untouched

no.4 left alone, the rest slotted.

you don't need to go far at all anyway.

for a road car, 1 degree camber (top of tyre leaning inwards) is enough, a more radical race/track car is still only about 3 degrees i believe for such as sud/33

hope this helps


ps - 0 degree toe (parallel) for road, +1 degree toe out (wider at the fronts) just in case you fancied the fast road/track again.

Yep, I know it will still be negative, but not sure why you backed it off after lowering. Did lowering make that much difference?

My racers were very low and I still had to slot significantly to get 2.5 degrees negative.

It's a genuine question btw, I'm not suggesting it's wrong.

OK, it's nice to know your all doing it the same as me. I lost confidence in how I did it from the clicking noise so now I have to look at my CV joints, lucky I have many spares to swap out. It's strange one would be worn though as the cars only done 60,000km.

Veesix75 wrote:Why do you want to go to positive camber?

To me it looks to much the way the wheels are splayed out, it does still drive very well like that so I want negative but not as much. The funny thing is my 33 looks really slammed (middle of the guard arch level with wheel height) and I'm not worried about the camber on that car.
On my Sprint I lowered it 35mm but it looks like where it should have been standard so would need to lower it 50 or 60mm to look similar to the 33, the Sprint with Sud suspension must have taller suspension geometry.

I just did the aligning on my racing rwd sprint yesterday, for track/hillclimb use:

Front:

Total Toe Out: - 0.69 degrees

Steer Ahead: zero

Camber: - 1.60 on each wheel

Caster: 0.15

Rear:

Total Toe Out: - 0.07 degrees

Camber: - 0.16 degrees




FYI, if you remove the rack end ball joint, every turn is +- 0.30 for the toe settings

Just to clarify something, the rears is not messed with, just what the readings were. Front caster the same