Classic Alfa Forums

junior wrote:Trying to reshape the front skirt and not done much with fibre glass.

So my question is ......Could I use a cardboard box as a former to remake the scoop section at very

the front and middle. Would it be best to wax the box or to wrap it tightly in polythene.

Or am I best finding someone who has done it before as my results may well look childish

Thanks as usual.

I use cardboard covered in resin proof tape for my mouldings - it's like Sellotape and stops the resin soaking into the cardboard. I've fabricated some fairly large panels, like my tunnel moulding using this technique. If you keep the shapes simple the fibreglass pops off the mould without any mould release agent.

I know, I ought to use all the right products but you can get a pretty good finish with a light skim of filler and some paint

Have fun, and don't forget to post some pictures of your efforts!

Lauren

Thanks for that. Will do.

Of course you are just the person to give advice on this part of the restoration.

Anyone good at Sud door locks. Used my new keys, all worked well. Drove 7 miles and went to lock it and

now it just will not lock on the passenger side.

The key and the button both push down on the bit of mechanism at the bottom of the lock,

but nothing happens nor can I see how it works. Released it but cannot get it out. Any idea's.

Thanks as always.

There's a topic on this somewhere - find it in advanced search.

Found it and useful so many thanks.

I am struggling to get the door lock out though. I undid the 3 screws detached all the rods but cannot get it to drop down or come around the window mechanism.

How has anyone done it before please ?

Keep at it all of a sudden it will shift. Iirc you think no way will it come out of that hole it's too small - but it does.

The passenger door refusing to lock has been making me a little crazy and as there is no work and its hot I decided a morning in the shed would sort it.

Took the door skin off carefully again and checked it all. Just appears the lock not responding to the turn of the key. Then saw that the rod down to it was at its least extent and so extended it to up its range.
Result, it worked. Double checked as been here before(door open door closed etc) and it worked. Fab

Put it all back together and it did not work.

Took it apart again and looked very hard at all the parts, then noticed the new door rubber was bunching at the front and pushing the door back against the stop.
So very carefully cut the back out of the rubber so it looks fine but has less mass and the door fitted better. And the lock worked so double checked and all was well. So put it back together and it did NOT!.

Then did all that again and filled the lock with oily grease and it all worked smoothly.................but did not work.

Then had lunch and decided to take it apart and add one part at a time till the lock stopped working.

It turned out to be the rod going across from the internal door handle.


The screw that held it had sheared or rusted before I had it and I had drilled it out and popped a nut and bolt through to hold it in place. This allowed a bit of movement and when I had tightened it up, it had been a bit forward. This then put tension on the lock mechanism which stopped it locking via the key.

So I have decided its best NOT to mend things. Mind you the door works perfectly now.

Absolutely full marks for methodically finding the solution, well done indeed.
That's why as frustrating as mechanical problems can be I much prefer trying to solve them than electronic issues where you change a part in the hope that it works, until it fails again!
And now you have a much more in depth knowledge of the doors workings so will be able to solve any further issues

Yes well done that man - at least it was a sit down job. Great perseverance.

Saw a chap who has helped me with the car at Weaver motor sport and was part way through the tale and he said ` it was the rod wasn't it '

He had it with older fords and you miss it as its often the last thing you connect. So I should not have taken it all apart and then added till the fault showed, but gradually taken parts off until it worked.

This could be why I am not working as a scientist. Perseverance , but not enough logic.

Sump with adapter back on, and no more leaks. Tested it via a quick roar up the hill at a local soap box contest.

Carts down all morning then a bit of noise at lunch time.
So British mechanical guage for the oil and no more chinese rubbish and auto electricians for a while. Hurrah!

One rear shock now banging after roaring up the hill at a local soap box race.

I knew it would be a shake down year, but this is a bit too regular. Must reflect upon the quality of the builder.

Thought it would be handy as no work to look at the noisy shock this morning.

What a pain, ended up modifying the shocks and a whole day on it.

Just could not work out what was causing us problems and then could not get a file in to open the hole at the top

of the turret which was part of the hassle. Had it on a mates lift which helped, but then had to cut in half

of one of his files Got there in the end and much better handling and less noise. Fab.
Started on the front skirt which is a bit of a learning curve again.

I was reading that thinking "what part of the shock is in that picture!"

Pay to read until the end before making assumptions

Interested to see how you get on with the spoiler, big fibre-glass sections I've never tried to make like that.

Taking shape James, looks like you are getting there.
Thumbs up.

Ah, the Black and Decker heat gun - many's the time that has saved me!

Yep its a very helpful tool, though not quite done the trick as I am trying to get the skirt to fit closer to the front of the car and its resisting.

I think the bottom of it where the material is thicker is just not heating up enough. Took an inch out of it so its much better, but if I try to pull it in further it just pulls the wheel arches out at the front so a bit annoying.

Still could be worse , I could have taken too much out !
With it in place I now wonder about colour and if I should do the whole of the grill, alloy panel and skirt black, or the alloy in Beige, or a mix and take the beige down into the skirt to the top of the scoop. Or......

Very undecided, so chaps your thoughts on a postcard please Don't let the wonky number plate confuse you, but it will probably stay in that area.

Personally James, I think keep the spoiler all black like the arches and grille, but your infill panel I would do body colour so it looks more original.

Ah yes, when you compare like with like I see your point. Thanks for putting the photo up.

Kegsti66 wrote:Personally James, I think keep the spoiler all black like the arches and grille, but your infill panel I would do body colour so it looks more original.

Definitely gets my vote!

Thanks Spacenut for your advice on the rubbing down on the glassfibre. You saved me a lot of work.

I now have a lot of respect for people who manage to get filler on evenly and rub it down cleanly as well.

My first attempt was okay till I painted it black then it looked awful. Second attempt look fine above 15 mph.

And good above 25.

Just fitting the number plate took over well an hour as it would not sit right, then the bracket on the back stood out so made two side brackets, then getting holes level.

Sometimes a simple task seems to just draw its self out. Happy now I have done it .

Spoiler has come out good, nice one.

Spoiler is looking really good now, every inch the 1970s track racer

Just took my son out for a run, went down one of the narrow lanes near me and a large tractor suddenly filled the whole lane,

so pulled to one side and gave the brakes a big push.

The pedal went to the floor after scrubbing a bit of speed .

More grass verge and a bit of handbrake, round the tractor and trailer and onwards. Applied the brakes gently at the last hill before home and it just worked them enough

to not have to use the handbrake. Once home, bonnet off and the Tilson brake bias valve if that's the right term was letting lots of brake fluid out of the top.

One of the few modern bits on the car and it let me down. Glad to have got away with it though.

Glad of the big tyres as they went well off road ! Never thought I would say that when I built it.

Spacenut wrote:Spoiler is looking really good now, every inch the 1970s track racer

Thanks for that and for all the encouragement I have had off people on this site. It has meant a lot esp when I have done something stupid or just plain wrong.

have you got the race seats with the hole in the centre of the base?...…..

close one

KevJTD wrote:have you got the race seats with the hole in the centre of the base?...…..

close one

No, but I think my son made a hole in his seat trying to leave the scene that was unfolding in front of him.

Presuming you have split circuit brake pipes, the fronts should have operated?
Or maybe you had lost too much fluid?

In which case, have you got a low brake fluid switch on your master cyl, and a warning light.

I've got the switch on the master cyl, but doesn't seem to be provision for it in the S2 loom

Just lost way too much fluid as it spurted out of the top of the brake bias valve.

No, no warning light, but I think I have had a clear warning now and will be acting upon it. Hopefully end of the week.

Just been looking at my shed wandering if i can fit in the little Lancia Appia that is on e bay.

Met a chap while cycling in France and he used it to tour various bits of the country each year. Smashing, little,great quality car.

Cannot see why the tilton brake bias valve was leaking. Seems odd as all looks perfect. Will buy new seals and then if I desire it later put it back on.

Just put a female joiner in the line and after a bit of fun really testing it I dont not think it is needed. Brakes worked perfectly.

The Toyo tires give so much grip despite all the farming bits on the road. Impressed.

Then the modern Citroen I run has been having steering issues and as the Sud was out I thought I will look under it.

It is booked in to have the rack replaced at great cost next week, but then I spotted the gaiter was loose and the steel band to hold it on was jammed in the steering arm.

Fantastic. Only hard bit was one handed replacement of a greasy jubilee clip. I really hope that has cured it. Even accidentally found an annoying rattle that I thought

was behind the dash Very happy when I put the Sud away. Some days just roll with you .

Well done. It's good to have things go right for a change

I just love the way your car looks - your sympathetic restoration has captured that 1970s racer vibe superbly. Sitting behind the wheel must be like stepping back in time... Love it