Classic Alfa Forums

Great rebuild thread mate, well done, car looks great

Oh bloody hell ! I cant believe the last bit, but seriously RESPECT for dropping the engine once again to get that sorted.

It would never occur to me that there's someghing inside those legs, I thought it was just pipes !
In any case its a good thing you found out, otherwise this might have caused you a lot more serious issues in the future.

So are you taking it back to the same guy who did the paint job for you ? sort out those legs and give it back ?

The alloy fillers in the legs aside, the other rust areas are becoming a common risk with chemically stripping a shell.

The trouble is, all the panel bonding and seam sealant dissappears along with the paint, leaving joints bare, opened and exposed.

If the bare shell is not properly taken care of before the rustproofing, this sort of thing will happen, and in worse places than usual!


Old, as in vintage and classic shall arent so affected but later cars with bonded panels and sealed spot welded seams will be, as the very chemical used to peel the paint away leaches out of the hidden ares that it wasnt sufficiently rinsed from.

For this reason i would never dip strip a shell of this age, i can only see more work down the line, depending on who has done it and how well, but if its a gamble, I'd rather not risk it personally.

I pray that this is an isolated issue for you Richard, but do keep an eye on the hidden seams and joints with an inspection from time to time.


There is also a more general issue with this kind of process, but this depends on the company and the size of its set up.

Some have the facility to dip the car clean, dip the car neautralised, and submerge the remains in the rust proof ecoat primer. Others, in the extreme case, can only dip the car, jet wash rinse it, and spray prime the remaining shell or part. This means that what little protection the car still had inside closed off areas such as sills, bulkheads and box section, has been removed to bare metal, and is almost impossible to replace entirely.

This can clearly lead to structural areas now corroding where they wouldnt have done prior to the process.

Its not for me, unless they are a 3 tank set up, and even then i think I'd be happier to keep it to panels rather than the full shell.

Sorry for sounding gloomy, but just wanting to put out there that not every company or process is the same, and in some cases the car will end up worse than before!

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So its already done ???

WOW !!!!

And now that 5% thats left is finishing off the plumbing and fire it up ?

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no spark or fuel?

odd that neither are working at the same time.

Does it have a dual channel immobiliser by any chance?

JixxerSud wrote:no spark or fuel?

odd that neither are working at the same time.

Does it have a dual channel immobiliser by any chance?

apologies, my 7 year old appears a little keen to advise!



back in your box sunshine,



back in the box

Hi chap
This sounds like the relay that powers the pump! I had the same problem when I did the 16v conversion . make sure its getting power when the ignition on . hope this helps ? Great resto

Actually, if you have your crank sensor on, then there are only 3 things left to check:

1 - The grounds on the engine block (little bracket which holds the starter motor in place). You may have forgot to put those on OR you left half of it behind.
If I remember correctly you should have a total of 5 cables there (ring terminals)

if thats ok, then

2 - AFM plug, make sure its secured in place. Sometimes you might think its on but it needs another push to click.

if thats also ok, then

3 - TPS plug isnt on.

Now these are given that the crank sensor plug is secured and in place. Your fuel pump will start sending while cranking, so dont expect to hear that going on as soon as you turn the ignition.

Very simple job and 100% positive its one of these
Especially the grounds which tend to hide behind the engine and you cant see them there to connect them

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one last thing !!!

if you have a TPSwitch and not a TPSensor, then if its already clicked with throttle off, then it wont start.

I'm very sure its something simple and silly. You just lost patience because of the minor things you had to go through to get here

Only kidding mate But as I said, its something DEAD SIMPLE

Tho I hate to admit it. ive got to agree with Chris It's going to be a simple thing. The joys of electrics

I'd power the fuel pump directly with a jumper lead from the battery and prove your fuel circuit for starters.

Still odd that you have neither spark or fuel though. The components Chris has mentioned can all affect the starting, but, independently i can't see why they would knock out both fuel pump and ignition circuits?

Any idea how far up the ignition circuit was still good?

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Bah... the experts....

Ship it over, it will be running in an hour

If it's bafflling "Alfa Experts" then i'd be looking back at the none alfa stuff again.

Immobiliser would be my first bypassed / ripped out system!

It just seems odd that both Fuel Pump and Ignition is down at the same time, when no single component in the efi system alone should let that happen to my knowledge, other than ECU but you say this is a known perfect one yeah?

Could it be as simple as the ignition barrel, not contacting the final turn?

Great resto! Looks perfect.
Where did you get those stickers from?

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Thanks for that. Will have a look at their site tomorrow.
Best Jan