Seam sealer

[LooLooSud33Spider]

I have a question for all the bodyshop guys. Can you recommend a brush on seam sealer that as near as damn replicates the factory finish and texture
Ta Lou.

[PETROLHEAD]

Hi Lou

I quite like the Tiger Seal tubes of bonding, as an alternative to the tins of purpose made Brush on seam sealer, it does an excellent job, but if you want a more traditionally packaged product, then the Starchem is good, as is the Tetrosyl stuff.


There's loads Lou, but as for replicating the original sealant, its more down to your application technique than the choice of product, and on that subject i'm not sure i'd want to recreate the way it was done originally!

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Thanks Shrew I know what you mean about the original Alfa "Hit n miss" approach to seam sealing I just want to give any vulnerable seams a degree If protection. And I thought a brushable product may the most suitable. can you brush on Tiger seal

[Kegsti66]

Hi Lou,
I agree with Shrew about lots of choice and application.
I used polyurethane out of a gun, then work it in with a stiff bristled brush.
I also use a bit of thinners to keep it wet so it doesn't drag.
The beauty is that it sets more than some of the old school cellulose based brush on sealers so over paints nice.

[KevJTD]

you see, there's a gem in many an innocent post.

using thinners to stop the sealer dragging whilst trying to smooth it out, never thought of that! do you wipe some on it mate or just dip the brush in a little pot of thinners?

[Kegsti66]

Dip the brush mate.
I tend to etch and prime the joint first. Then prep to colour, then seal prior to putting on the top coat. I like to think the etch has a chance to seep a little into the joint to protect.

[PETROLHEAD]

Yes, Tiger Seal is quite brushable with a little effort, and reasonably stiff brush.

Nice tip from keith, never had to do that but sounds a good option for long runs that might start stiffening, fab!


I like to masking tape the borders of the seam, gun the bead on, then brush it in for thorough sealing and final shaping. Give it a few minutes to cure ever so slightly then de-mask to reveal lovely sharp edges to it.

Looks very nice and professional this way, and to repeat Keith its quite paintable too



As for Keiths method, you can see just how bloody awful his technique turns out!

[Kegsti66]

Yeh Rubbish !!

[PETROLHEAD]

I don't know how you dare show it Keith,

shameful!

[KevJTD]

better than the factory did it

[BS25]

That engine bay is like the rest of the car Keith - amazing!

[Kegsti66]

Cheers guys.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Thanks for all the ideas and tips guys . If I can achieve a result like Keith's I'll be very satisfied. I'm only doing the steel fab / repair work that I'm confident I can carry out to reasonable std and I'll be leaving the final prep to the paint shop.
Any thoughts on the best stuff to spray in to the cavities like sills and chassis sections (only do this after the paint job obviously) Is waxoyl still considered the best or has anything better been developed.

[PETROLHEAD]

Waxoyl or dinitrol still seem to be 2 brands you hear most positive things about lou,

Many other rebrands of same or similar stuff around, but at least you know what you're getting with those.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Thanks Shrew

[KevJTD]

I use this stuff, seems to be quite good at the job, especially on the bits I seem to have done years ago.
Bonus is it's reasonably priced but better than that it sprays nicely straight from the can whereas the Finnigans Waxoyl tends to need warming up a bit, especially is using those little pump action sprayers.
Myself I use a Shutz gun that seems to make a nice fog spray pattern into cavities like sills.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tetrosyl-Carp ... SwvgdW2qVU

[Kegsti66]

Hi Lou,
I used Dinitrol as I find Waxoyl is too thick and hard to get right inside box sections no matter how hot you get it.
If you have a pressure fed under seal / stone chip gun with an attachment wand (a length of washer tube will do on a shutz gun) you can get Dinitrol to spray through it as it has the consistency of old diesel engine oil
If you block off the end of the tube with ,say a bolt, and cross drill a few holes in the pipe, it will make it spray out sideways. In the sill section I just slowly pulled it out as I kept spraying. I also drilled two holes either side of the inner sill flange in the wheel arches so I could get at both side of the inner strengthener (rotted out so had to replace it). Then just fit a rubber grommet/bung. Remember to mask over the big holes inside the car. It will mist everywhere so like you say, after paint work, but if possible before the fit up. It rains out of the gaps but then sets like waxoyl. Easy to then wipe off but you will see that it travels a lot further into the cavities.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Thanks for the advice Keith And Kev.

[alfadave]

I remember being advised not to use waxoyl.
A friend had used it in a cill, but found that it became brittle in very cold weather, and shrank back, leaving a void......allowing water to become trapped.
He saw this when he had to cut out part of the cill to do a rust repair.

Dave

[LooLooSud33Spider]

interesting Dave thanks for that. I think going to go for Dinitrol.

[alfadave]

My mate used old engine oil mixed with grease.
Warmed the mix up, and sprayed it into the cavities.
Then parked his car on some waste ground until the drips stopped!
Dave

[dave.armstrong]

I always like Bilt Hamber Dynax S50

[junior]

My mate used old engine oil mixed with grease.
Warmed the mix up, and sprayed it into the cavities.
Then parked his car on some waste ground until the drips stopped!
Dave

Bet people loved him visiting on a hot day and parking on their clean drive.

I like the Bilt Hamer wax as well. Covers and stays there.

[KevJTD]

One of my jobs as a YTS was to spray the undersides of cars with waste engine oil, what a mess that makes! I did enjoy it though, who wouldn't as a 16 year old love spraying oil everywhere!

[philwesty21]

is that Brun Cilento on your Ti?

[Kegsti66]

Colour is Corallo Torre De Greco. Code AR 531.