My 916 Spider

[Kegsti66]

You two just blow me away with your commitment and drive to get these jobs moved along.
Fantastic work you are both doing, and it is as if you are sharing a workshop and spurring each other along.
No corners cut, just thorough attention to quality and detail.
First class.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Awww thank Keith that’s really nice of you to say.

[KevJTD]

A virtually identical list of bits taken too!
Although I didn't send the realy brackets, and I'm sure I've got some stickers for the slam panel in the unit, so spooky how similar!
Although we've both spoke of the plans though haven't we

[LooLooSud33Spider]

The list of bits is probably similar because we both know the problem areas. With the subframe especially we all know how they like to dissolve. When I’ve got the new one fitted I’ll get the old one refurbished aswell then it can be bubble wrapped and put up as a spare for anyone that may need it. As far as I know they are the same for the 155,145/6, spider ,GTV and probably all “Tipo Due” platform cars. The other stuff is more cosmetic dressing and there’s nothing wrong with that

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Got the First batch of Powder coated bits back today for the spider.

I’ve also given the main front engine mounts a lick of paint. Only smooth Hammerite but better than Rust
For ref. The subframe before

[LooLooSud33Spider]

In other news it looks like I need a radiator . Oh yeah and I’ve dropped a bunch of sud stuff off for coating aswell mainly suspension arms etc

[KevJTD]

Funnily enough I picked up my powder coated bits Tuesday morning...

[LooLooSud33Spider]

There’s something very satisfying about fitting nice freshly refurbished bits and pieces.

[KevJTD]

I'll find out on Saturday

[alfadave]

Powder coated suspension components are likely to get chipped?

I would be interested to know how the coaters recommend repairing stone chips?

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Morning Dave
TBH The powder is quite tough and is certainly a better protection than the std paint finish of factory components. All I do if something get a blemish I just touch it up with A dab of paint but from experience I’ve had very little cause to do any such touch ups.

[KevJTD]

Agreed. All the stuff I've had done over the years on many cars has been fine. Any chips can be touched in the same as other paint methods but I've never had casue to, like most scenarios the detail is in the preperation. The fact that the pieces are blasted back to bare first off, which provides a great key surface for the powder to stick to, then it's remarkably chip resistant.
I do know of a friend who had some done elsewhere though, Delta parts, and they rusted back through. But that would undoubtedly have been down to poor preperation. Once blasted to fresh metal and painted whilst fresh then they're no issue.
Find a good one, ask locally for anyone that's used them, and away you go.

[alfadave]

Call me old fashioned, but its blasting then paint for me. I always thought of powder coating as a decorative finish........and quite pricey too.

Hammerite, or POR15 if I'm feeling flush.

Then I can repair any damage with the same paint.

I met a guy who worked for RR Aerospace at Barnoldswick, Lancs. He told me they used POR 15 for all their ancillary components. If its good enough for RR..........

[LooLooSud33Spider]

There’s no doubt Dave. Each process has its pros and cons. All I can say is from personal experience I find powder coat much more durable and longer lasting than most paint finishes. It also seems to be impervious to most fluids from brake fluid to petrol and brake cleaner. It also wipes clean with very little effort. Yes It may seem to be a little more expensive but in the long term I feel it’s worth it.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Some under bonnet shots showing how the refreshed bits and bobs are helping improve the engine bay. I need to put more effort in to get the plastics bits better. Im also replacing as many nuts and bolts as I can. I hate grotty nuts !!!

[Kegsti66]

superb

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Thanks Keith I’m hoping to have a few more interesting photos later this week I got the Subframe off today. It took a bit of wriggling and is almost certainly easier with the engine out. As Kev said the fiddliest bit was the two plates with captive bolts that secure the tunnel panel that sits above the exhaust. I’m going to paint my ARB for now as I just don’t want to wait another 2-3 wks for powder coat. I may well redo it if the engine comes out again. Hopefully I can get the subframe back in place tomorrow then I’ll be on the home stretch. (For the front end at least )
Uprights have been wire brushed and treated with Kurust. Then painted with smooth hammerite. The ABS sensor bolt has been snapped off in the past but as the sensor will be destroyed if I try to get it out. I’ll sort that out as and when it needs wheel bearings. When I’ll fit new sensors.
I’ve still got to order new discs and pads all round. Oh yeah and a radiator.
The callipers will of course be attended to when the suspension is all back together.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

More progress. The Subframe and ARB ready to be refitted.

Ooohhh new decals.

After a bit of wriggle i managed get the Subframe refitted. Also got the suspension all buttoned up. discs and pads ordered today so next week it should be on its wheels again Yaaaaay btw the brake flex’s is will be replaced with Aeroquips in the near future.

[Kegsti66]

Looking very smart Lou, looks like a keeper

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Hi Keith. Oh yeah we decided very early on that it was going to be a keeper. That’s why I’m spending so much time on the detail. I’ve only got a small fan heater in the garage and It’s been a little cold to do anything on it today but I’m hoping to crack on again as soon as the snow clears.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Nearly done. Just got to do the brakes. I’m obviously going to paint the callipers at the same time.

Next winter I’ll probably remove the tunnel panel from above the exh and give that a refurb. The other thing I’d like t9 do at somepoint is to paint the entire underside of the floor.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Spotted a bargain of a deal on Pagid at Euro car parts. Front and rear discs delivered for the grand total of £26.99. This must of been a mistake and I was half expecting a cancellation email. But to ECP credit they arrived today. I’m sure some young school leaver has now got a shiny new ar***ole as I know Kev took advantage aswell.

[alfadave]

Am I right in thinking they have to stiffen the shell on a Spider to avoid shake?
If so, can you see any evidence of extra stiffening whilst you are under it?

I just wondered how corrosion resistant 916 Spiders are.......floors/cills etc.

As I fancy having one...........sometime!

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Hi Dave. I haven’t found any significant difference to the actual structure between the 916 Spiders and GTV (apart from a roof !) The spider does have a second bulkhead behind the seats with a top that creates a storage compartment but that’s a non structural panel and I’ve removed it on the Turbo spider for ease of access.(you can even see when the seats would be if it was a GTV) . The sill sections appear to be the same aswell as the floor sections. This obviously leads to the GTV being a stiffer chassis as it s got a roof.
As for corrosion they are proving to be really quite resilient to the Italian tin worm. I know that the back of the sills and rear arches can rust but other than that they really aren’t bad. I’m sure Kev can shed light on the other areas to be aware of when looking. The spider is known for a degree of scuttle shake which Is further aggravated if stiffer non std springs are fitted which can in my opinion spoil the ride. That’s why on my spider ive gone back to bone stock apart from a set of Konis. The spider is no racer. But for roof down wind in the hair fun it’s a blast. The other thing is you don’t see many spiders or GTVs on the road these days which leads to an element of exclusivity I can highly recommend it
Lou

[Sud 145]

Spotted a bargain of a deal on Pagid at Euro car parts. Front and rear discs delivered for the grand total of £26.99. This must of been a mistake and I was half expecting a cancellation email. But to ECP credit they arrived today. I’m sure some young school leaver has now got a shiny new ar***ole as I know Kev took advantage aswell.
2849C4C5-D5E3-4E90-A4C4-E689C58D24E5.jpeg

Daylight robbery....got to love a bargain

[KevJTD]

Indeed a bargain.
Plus I got a set of rear discs and some front pads for a 156 V6 for just over a tenner, not that I have a 156 at the moment of course!

Rusty bits I've seen on the GTV/Spider seem to be the usual suspects as mentioned, sills and floor lips. Rear jacking point box sections pieces etc.
Rear arches inner and out seem to be a weak spot too.
The one thing they are known to suffer from though is the bonnet hinges can shear which form part of the top hinge for the door. So much so in fact that mine sheared on me tonight just as I was packing up to go home
Quite the drama, the bonnet almost fell off to one side with the rams trying to twist it away.
Took a bit of manhandling to get it into a safe position so I could effect a repair.

So if you have a 916 car then make oiling the hinge pivots on the bonnet a monthly task.

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Oh yeah mine did that on the N/S

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Quick update on the spider. So I got the front suspension refurb all finished and fitted the new Konis. Then the problem started. I fitted the wheels and the words “holy Sheize that’s close “ came to mind.

Now remember that I ran the car last year with the 18” wheels with no issues so I had to start looking at cause of the the problem. It turns out that the konis spring pan is a full inch lower than the std struts. This came as a surprise since they are supposed to be a straight swap for the std legs. Now with std 16” or even 17” wheels it wouldn’t be. Problem but with 18”s it most certainly is

Talking to Phil at Alfashop It also appears that Koni have now discontinued struts for the 916 series cars so For the time being I’ve refitted the Monroe struts with new springs until I can get some help from Koni. I may have to look at sending the struts to koni UK to see if they can strip them down and lift the spring pans an inch

I’ve still got the NS strut to do and then rebuild the drivers door before I can tax the car for the summer

[alfadave]

Do you have a set of standard wheels?

Or could the Koni inserts be fitted in the original struts?

[LooLooSud33Spider]

Yes I have the original 16” wheels but I don’t really want to refit them. I’m currently looking at various options which does include rebuilding and modifying this set of Konis