Classic Alfa Forums

What does everyone think about the idea of there being a 'sticky' topic called 'Helpful Tips' where we can all post our favourite tips, get arounds etc that we use when working on our Suds?

i.e.

Don't believe everything that the Haynes manual tells you!

The tools that I use to make it easier to remove the drive shaft bolts, set brake pad clearance etc.

How I fill up my gearbox with oil.

How I change my handbrake cable in situ and the correct swear words to use.

We could make our own difficulty scales similar to the 5 spanners system but call it the 5F's or 5FFS's

How to squint, hold your mouth and fumble correctly when attaching the speedo cable spring clip blind.

How to take the speedo drive gear out.

How to remove the water pump.

How to change the clutch without removing the engine.

How to seperate the headlight glasses re mirror the reflector and seal it back together.

etc etc

Is a good idea Dave

I like this idea, we need all the help we can get keeping these gems on the road!

My tip for keeping a car in a garage for many months is to buy one of those de-humidifiers that cost a pound in Tesco. When I decided to get my Sud out after the winter, the container was full of water but my interior was mould free!

Also, leave the handbrake off but the gear lever in first...helps avoid seized calipers!

Here is a photo of the tools I use for removing the drive shaft bolts.

I use a long 6mm socket so that it can fit in next to the CV boot without damaging it and you can get into all 6 bolts without turning the drive shaft.

This allows you to leave the handbrake on so if you are not replacing the discs it keeps them in place making it much easier to re attach the driveshafts without having to hold the disc, spacer and driveshaft when aligning the bolts.

I use a 3 foot extension bar and this allows me to undo and tighten the bolts from the side of the car where the wheel would be.

You can always connect a few smaller extension bars together. ( I got this one cheap at the NEC and then had to walk round the show with it all afternoon).

By using this method it also allows you to torque the bolts to the correct torque.

These are the very complicated tools that I have used since 1981 for filling the gearbox with oil.

A length of garden hose and a funnel!

Assuming that you have already drained the gearbox oil, jack and support the car on stands making sure that it is as high as you can get it on the drivers side (RH drive cars).

Remove the filler plug and get a willing helper to feed the length of hosepipe from the engine bay down the side of the gearbox.

From underneath the car push the hosepipe into the filler hole and hold it there.

Get the willing helper to attach the funnel to the hose and slowly pour the correct amount of oil down the funnel whilst you hold the hosepipe into the filler hole. (slightly more than the prescribed 3.4L)

Put a drip tray under the side of the gearbox.

When the oil has all been put in lower the car until it is level to allow any excess oil to drain out.

Jack the car back up, reinsert the filler plug and the jobs done.

Just did my gearbox oil in the rallycar and it started to spill at 3l. This was after having had the car flat and angled to ensure all the oil came out. The one time I added the 3.4l on the bench and ignored the spill, just put the bung back in I had lots of aggro on the next rally. Loads of smoke as the excess came out the breather and blew onto the exhaust. had to remove the bung and let it spill to a natural level.

My technique is slightly different to Daves in that I drive the front onto ramps and then use a jack to lift the back of the car and get it level.

Something I always do is to warm the oil I am adding so that it flows better. Just stand it in a bucket of boiling water for a while. I also do this with engine oil especially on start up after a rebuild. Same with water. After the antifreeze has gone in I use boiling water to get a bit of heat into components.

I use a similar idea on drive shafts just made up a T bar with socket ends.

I also have the same for when I was adjusting the inner piston on the front calipers.
On the outer piston I machined down a 17mm socket so it fitted "inside" and then put a handle on it. Stopped all the problems with a spanner slipping off and rounding the nut.

I remember Kev had a really good way of winding the clutch slave cylinder into place. Hopefully he will be along soon to remind us all

rsfruitbat

I'd forgotten that method mate!

Here it is...…

The clutch slave is a pig to get back in place, too much resistance whilst you fiddle with getting the circlip into place, not enough space or hands!

So I came up with this solution using a few sockets & extensions and a long bolt which goes into the alternator mount.

Once assembled in the manner pictured with the head of the bolt in the socket and the threads in the alt bracket then all you have to do is turn the nut next to the alternator mount which forces the bolt/extensions against the slave forcing it into place whilst being held firm so you can use both hands on the circlip insertion task....simple!

Fit some Revolution Wheels.
Then you can slacken the front hub nuts with the wheels still on!

Not possible with my Campanatura wheels.....the hole is too small.

On twin carb cars, get rid of the tangle of vent pipes......can cause a lot of problems if there are any splits

Blank each carb spigot off with a plastic cap (stolen from the clothes maiden)

Vent the oil filler to ground, using the L shaped pipe with an extension

Passes the MoT ok.

Dave

Not forgetting to blank off the air horns with an original type allen screw, or a cut of bolt with a slot sawn in it

Bin the choke cable/brackets etc on twin carb cars, and start it with a shot or two of fuel from the pump jets

Put plenty of Copper slip around the clutch slave cylinder when fitting to stop it welding into place.

When changing cambelts, turn the engine to TDC, with the rotor arm pointing to no1 lead.

Ignore all the stuff in the haynes manual about valve positions.

Use M6/M8 flange nuts instead of nuts and washers, on the air horns, carbs, manifolds etc.
Less fiddly, and saves dropping washers down the ports!

Not so much a tip but ingenious if you want to measure wheel camber: http://www.andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/nov09.html#d27

Engine code list, courtesy of alfisiti..



Engine Number Identification-. 301.02 - Single carb Sud 1.2 63hp
301.04 - Sud 1.2 ti 68hp
301.02/S - Sud 1.2 60hp
301.84 - Sud 1.3 74hp
301.60 - Sud Super 1.35 70hp
301.64 - Sud 1.35 75hp
301.68 - Sud 1.35/Sprint 63hp
301.24 - Sud 1.5 ti/Sprint 83hp
301.28 - Sud 1.5 ti/Sprint 95hp
301.46 - Sud 1.5 ti/Sprint/33 105hp
310.00/305.00 - Arna 1.2 60hp
310.10/301.68 - Arna 1350 Gti 85hp
310.16/305.20 - Arna 1500 Gti 95hp
305.00 - 33 1.2 68hp
305.02 - 33 1.3 75hp
305.04 – 33 1.5 ti 84hp
305.20 – 33 1.5 ti 90hp
305.50 – 33/Sprint 1.7 114hp
305.58A - 33 1.7 ie Kat 105hp
307.43 – 33 1.2 78hp
307.32 – 33 1.3 86hp
307.34 – 33 1.5 105hp
307.50 – 33 1.5ie 96hp
307.51 – 33 1.5ie Kat 95hp
307.46 – 33 1.7 16v 137hp
307.36 – 33 1.7 ie 110hp
307.37 – 33 1.7 ie Kat 110hp
307.47 – 33 1.7 16v Kat 132hp
307.55 - 33 1.3/1.4 IE specific to Greece and runs the Bosch L-Jetronic 3.2
335.01 – 145/146 1.3i Kat 90hp
332.01 – 145/146 1.6i Kat 103hp
334.01 – 145/146 1.7i 16v Kat 129hp

Just refitted the engine on my twin carb sud.
I counted up 26 M8 flange nuts I've used.
Thats 26 washers I didn't have to fiddle with!

Re: Suspension bushes !!

Always tighten suspension bolts with the suspension at its normal Running ride height . Simply make sure your axle stands are under the axle not the body so that the springs are taking the weight Of the car. This ensures the Bushes are correctly stressed when you put the car in the ground Failure to do this can Result in premature bush wear and eventual failure . This also applies if you fit lowering springs just slacken they bolts and retighten at the new lower height. Below is the preload weight /position table for suds and Sprints.
Lou

Always annoys me on the likes of TV shows like Wheeler Dealers etc when they fit nice new suspension arms and tighten up on full droop

Tight nuts and full droop?
See your Doctor!

alfadave wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 05, 2020 7:16 am

Tight nuts and full droop?
See your Doctor!

Any use?http://alfasudsprint.com/colors-car-pai ... p2jMv4ZT7I

For those like me who don't have a real garage put two small packets of silica on top of the distributor and cover with a newspaper - I've never had a problem with moisture doing this.