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Dave's Projects

Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2020 8:32 pm
by alfadave
Bugger all at the moment.

The pubs have re opened!

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2020 9:31 pm
by KevJTD
:lol:

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2020 10:23 pm
by junior
:lol: Very good.

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 7:39 pm
by alfadave
Greased the bonnet catch in the sud the other day.

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 7:42 pm
by LooLooSud33Spider
We need pictures Dave. and what grease did you use ?

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 8:04 pm
by alfadave
Still only half way through the film.
And then the chemist takes ages doing the developing and printing.
Tacky film spray grease from Unipart. Remember them?

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 8:07 pm
by LooLooSud33Spider
😂😂

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 8:53 am
by alfadave
Looked at the fuel filter.
Very black inside.
I think I'll change it today......no photos though.

Did someone say something about an additive in modern petrol causing rubber fuel pipes to degrade?

I've got an 8mm copper fuel pipe underneath, but braided rubber pipes over the tank, and in the engine comp.

If so, is there a type of 8mm flexi fuel pipe that doesn't degrade?

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 9:00 am
by LooLooSud33Spider
Dave.
The issue is BioEthanol I know it’s a problem with classic cars In the US. However I’m not sure how much has made it into Fuel on the UK market yet. Ethanol can destroy rubber components in fuel systems .
I found this article from the RAC about it

“Plans are afoot for E10 fuel to become the standard grade at forecourts across the country. But what exactly is E10 fuel and what do you need to know ahead of its launch in the UK?
It’s estimated that the greener fuel could reduce CO2 emissions by 750,000 tonnes per year, the equivalent of taking up to 350,000 cars off the road.

Current petrol grades in the UK contain up to 5% bioethanol, known as E5. The proposed E10 fuel increases the share of the renewable energy produced using crops, to 10%.

Estimates fail to mention, however, that there could be as many as 600,000 vehicles on our roads that aren’t compatible with the fuel.

Here is a look at the pros and cons of using this new fuel as a genuine answer to increasing emission issues.

What is E10 fuel?
E10 is a biofuel made up of 90% regular unleaded and 10% ethanol – hence the E10 name.

Standard unleaded fuel contains up to 5% ethanol and can be used in any petrol-engined car without problems or the need for modification.

With E10, things aren’t quite so simple, which is why its roll-out in the UK compared to other European countries has been delayed.“

Search for E10 fuel in Google you’ll be able to read more about it
Lou

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 1:28 pm
by justsuds
Currently Esso super unleaded does not contain any ethanol, so a better proposition for older cars.
John.

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 1:41 pm
by alfadave
Shell garage near me sells V Power 99 Octane
Will have to check that out

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 1:42 pm
by alfadave
Shell garage near me sells V Power 99 Octane
Will have to check that out

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 3:06 pm
by alfadave
Shell v power unleaded contains "not more than 5% ethanol".
so,i'm looking for a Esso garage!

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 4:51 pm
by NEG
Up to 5% ethanol shouldn’t be an issue if you have upgraded all flexible fuel hoses, you may need to richen the mixture a touch though, keep an eye on the plug colour. As for Esso, they state:

Esso super unleaded petrol (Synergy Supreme+ Unleaded 97) is ethanol free (except in Devon, Cornwall, the Teesside area and Scotland). We would therefore advise anyone who has concerns about the presence of ethanol in petrol to use Synergy Supreme+ – providing they do not fill up in Devon or Cornwall, the Teesside area or Scotland.

But I noticed in my local garage the pump had a new E5 label on it and I’m in Bucks. I hope E10 is not forced on us all, if it is I’ll be separating out the ethanol like this guy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSnE4MYwRzs

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 8:52 pm
by alfadave
Pumped up the Sud tyres today.
Photos to follow,

But I used my new Michelin double barrelled foot pump.

After all these years they've changed from a clip on valve connector, to a screw on type........amazing!

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2022 6:28 pm
by alfadave
Put some additive in my Sud screenwash bag today.

December 1st tomorrow, Winter is coming.

No photos, you get what I mean.

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2022 11:03 pm
by KevJTD
Had quite a few issues with screenwash lately, blocking stuff up as it turns to jelly.
Fords have a little filter in the bottle where the pump sits, had to take several apart and clean the jelly out.
Not sure if it's people using too rich a concentrate or what. Still never seems to stop it freezing either.

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2022 3:11 pm
by alfadave
Also, i thought of a 12v heater to plug into the cigar lighter.........except there isn't one!

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2023 9:11 am
by alfadave
Cleared the snow off the Sud.
It started first time!

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2023 9:46 am
by LooLooSud33Spider
Sounds like a result Dave.

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2023 8:26 pm
by alfadave
The heater is utterly useless in cold weather.
Its cold in Northern Italy....what did they do?

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2023 1:30 pm
by Alfastrut
Have you tried back flushing the matrix

Re: Dave's Projects

Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2023 12:15 am
by KevJTD
I've heard people say about the Sud heater being useless but the ones I've had have been great, OK not up to modern standards maybe but perectly acceptable.
There's several things that need to be correct before the heater can function as it should.
The matrix needs to be clear and free flowing, as in water needs to be able to flow through and the fins need to be in good order so the heat can transfer to the air.
Very important is that the air control flaps need to be able to move through their full range and close tightly with a good seal around the edges, draught excluder of the self adhesive type is handy for this task if the original has departed.
You also need to make sure that the control cables are connected correctly too! The flaps should position themselves in such a way that air has to travel through the matrix, that way it will warm the air coming in.
Check that the water connections from the engine are clear, when the engine is up to temperature the heater pipes in and out should both be hot, almost as much as a bare hand can cope with. If they're not, or one is and one is cold then you have a blockage.
The heater is a simple device which if all the above are correct it will function more than adequately. Remove it from the car, seperate it in the two halves and go through it methodically. The results will be worth the effort.