I've been away for while but now I'm back again! I lost a little bit motivation when I realized that gearbox will need repair. Earlier I had thought that the combination of worn gear lever bushing and tired clutch master cylinder is causing gear changing problems but after repairing these gear change was still bad. And yes, it is indeed that too famous crunchy 2nd gear. Not even Redline MT-90 oil helped, I suppose it should be best stuff for gearboxes?
By the way, which parts usually goes bad in this 2nd gear case? Do I need just new synchro rings and gaskets or is there other parts too like bearings or gearbox lever mechanism parts that should be changed?
Furthermore, cleaning and adjusting carburetors went somehow wrong. The car goes nicely for about 20 km's but then car looses power totally. Stopping and letting engine cool down helps and car will go again approx. 20km's. I was thinking that it may be some gunk that was left inside carbs and clogs some narrow channel when the engine is hot enough. But could be something else like ignition?
Does someone have similar experiences that after a 10-20km's drive car looses power?
Anyways, these little things are part of the hobby.
Meanwhile I have done some inspection under the Zender kit. Of course with little surprises though it could have been much worse. Mostly surface rust. Only bad place was in front of left rear wheel, inner mud guard. There was also some rust a left sill between rear fender and sill joint and below sill. Surprisingly right side was totally rust free, so I did not even take a photo of that side.
I also took off left front fender, because I have to repair a little rusted area in engine room which goes to under the fender (second photo, sorry for the bad pic!). Furthermore, there was some rust behind the fender (you know, there is supporting structure behind the fender, at door side which is used for bolt attaching from inside) so I think it is good idea to remove right one too. Rust was still just on surface, so good time to clean all. That place had rusted because there was no rust protection stuff att all. Of course the place is impossible to reach with any spray or other tool so quite understandable.
I tagged rusty places with red arrows. Only honestly bad place was inner rear wheel arch. What really worries me is that now I like the look of the car much more without all the plastics and bumbers...
I had opened the rust place during winter but I had no possibilities to weld back then so I just sprayed some rust protection paint + black spray over the revealed russian "quality" steel
.
Like the rust place above, under the bonnet, I had also inspected rust of the rear mud guard earlier. I just took the the photo after painting over revealed steel. But the rust really looked that small back then..
By the way, note the idiotic design there. Water drain is
above joint, so water will "nicely" flow thru the joint inside the sills...
...But when I really started removing bad steel it finally looked like this. Positive is that rust was still inside. Exterior steel had not rusted there alhough I think rust could have spreaded there sooner or later. As you see there is some red paint, and that's not mine but this place has been repaired already in the past, perhaps just removal of surface rust back then. I have to anyway open the joint between floor pan and rear fender to clean all the rust.
Is the fender just spot welded, so I can drill the spots open?
And finally evidence that what ever happens, in the end restoring old Alfa is fun! (I'm lying on the floor)
PS about the wheels, I was thinking these:
http://www.ntmwheels.com/en/product/l037/
...but just planning, first things first!