Thanks for that.
You say its agressive on the skin, is it ok with older oil seals?

If Setright says don't use molybdenem, then don't. I would always accept his advice.

Regards,

Chris.

Bought from John at Justsuds.
Good price.
Thanks John.

The change on my Sud is slow.
I think it is taking time for the synchro to work.
I have seen it suggested that 75/90 rather than 80/90 will make a difference.

Is that the best idea or what about Mollyslip or other additives?

Any ideas?

Chris.

I get the 'screamer'. Interesting idea. I will stick with the 1500 for now.
John. I am still interested in a 1500 block if you have one?

Chris

What mixture of parts = 1600 screamer? Sounds interesting.

Chris

Explain? I assumed a full rebore and oversized pistons?

Chris.

Thanks loo but I am not ready for a 1700 just yet.

Chris

The last block I used had some rust in the bore. I removed most with the hone, but clearly not enough or I went too far. I have low compression on that cylinder. I want a block I can transfer everything to without extra work. It's for a Minari that I want as a track car. The 1700 would be interestin...

Thanks Loo.

Regards,

Chris?

I want to buy a 1500 boxer block. Does anybody have a spair one they would like to get rid of?

Regards

Chris.

So, to report back: I now have a nicely running engine! But to get there was a saga as follows: I found first that cylinder 2 was not idling at all. Lots of investigation eventually found that the channel below the idle jet was completely blocked and needed a drill to clear. After that I got a badly...

I have re-built a 1500 TI engine with no history. It has: Hydraulic tappets. Webber carbs. It will not idle. The idle screws have no effect. It will run on the mains. I took it for a drive and under power > 2000 rpm it seems to run OK. As soon as the throttles close its miss firing etc. Testing the ...

I have finally got the seats back from being re-covered and I think they look pretty good! I did all the repair work on the structure including new back support and new springs. The foams are the originals. A guy from Shropshire Auto Stitch put it all together with the fabric from Italy. Took it to ...

Thanks for the replies. The story so far: I have an old 1.5 engine with damaged con-rods, but the block seems to be OK after a strip down at the WE.(I have all bits for this engine including carbs. I need to check the carb size). The later damaged engine says its 1.5, but has the hydraulic tappets a...

I think I am better off getting an expert to do the basic block/crank/pistons. I am happy to do all the rest!

Chris.

The damaged block is AR305 88, which I think is 1.5 33.

Can I use the heads from this on any 1.5 block?

Chris.

I bought a car and I now find that the engine is frost damaged (water leaks from a crack in the block). My mistake! I now need a replacement engine, so various questions: 1. Who do I go to for engine re-builds or to buy a short engine? 2. Are all 1500 blocks the same? I have an old engine (1983) and...

I got the samples and now I have the TI and black fabric to do the whole car.

The italian supplier Antonio has come up trumps for me.

Chris.

I would quite like to change an outer (CV) joint, but to do that you must get the old one off! (sud not 33) Has anybody managed this? I have done a lot of work with a big hammer to no effect. I have also tried a bottle jack pushing it off and reached the stage where I am afraid to go any further! An...

I have just received a pair of new brembo 6 hole front inboard disks from alfa-restoration.co.uk.
They have come from Greese in less than a week!

There seem to be some left.

Hope this helps somone.

Chris.

I am about to buy fabric from Antonio Ruggi for my TI GC. The TI fabric looks good in the pictures, but the side panel fabric he recommends BATIS does not look as though it matches the black fabric on my seats. Has anybody bought this? Is it black or not? Does it match the black fabric on the TI sea...

Thanks for the heads up on the bushes. I managed to mix some 33 bits with my Sud bits that caused trouble (the rubbers at the top of the spring which set the rotation angle), but I THINK I have them correct now. The strut bearings are new and everything else is tight. The steering is OK (a little he...

My steering is not quite right! I have checked everything I can think of and all that is left is a new set of bushes. I have decided to go with the originals rather than powerflex. I can find originals for the rear link (original number 531050) My problem is the fronts. The originals are 102693 but ...

I understand my mistake!

When checking the opening and closing angles of the cam shafts I think you use 0.7mm opening of the valve as a reference point. That has got nothing to do with tappet settings!

I just miss-understood what I was reading.

Thanks for the clarification.

Chris.

What tappet clearance am I supposed to set on a 1.5 Green Clover Leaf engine (105 hp) with shimmed tappets? My Haynes manual says 0.7 for these engines against 0.35mm-0.40mm inlet and 0.45mm-0.50mm exhaust for the earlier engines. I have lapped in all the valves and need to reset them but I have als...

Interesting you say early heads.

This engine came out of a 1.5 33, so I would not think its early, But, who knows the full history!

The white stuff will come off in the morning.

Regards,

Chris.

So, I have the first head off and taken to pieces. First suprise is that there are no oil seals on the exhaust valves! I was suprised with the first one and confirmed with the second. Could this be right? seems very unlikely. Secondly the exhaust valves hav a good coating of hard white powder. Not g...

The wheels are from a 145.
I have the original pepper pots and tires, but you cant get replacements.
These wheels have 195 tires with 10mm spacers.
I think they are a bit wide. People recommend 185's, so i might downsize in the future.

Chris.

Unfortunately not.

The engine was not moving whilst doing this test.

Chris.

I have noticed a 'clunk' when I apply the drive and I think its 'backlash' or looseness in the drive train. Its not in the drive shafts (there is no looseness in any of the joints) so it must be in the gearbox. I did a measurement: I jacked up one side front, put the car in gear and then rotated the...