John also tells me he has the metal spring plates shot blasted and powder coated.

Although hammerite would be quite acceptable for me.

Still not checked out the strut bearings......
but as they are probably 30 years old, I anticipate them being shot.

I must be getting old (true!) and don't fancy the strut rebuild job, so good to know that John at Justsuds will offer this service, and has all the parts to hand.

Could it be a broken valve spring?

I would put the 1350 in. Get the clutch working.

Keep the 1712......very desirable engine.

Not sure where you are......but shift it to Matthewsons and watch the mad bidding take place!

Let someone else sort the brakes/suspension/tyres etc.

Shame to scrap a solid shell!

What panels would be required?

Surely someone (not me!) would take it on.

Maybe facebook/ebay might find someone.

Whats happening to the shell?

Go on Lou.......show us your blobs!

I find I need one hand on the spanner, and two to fit the belt!

Also , is there a way of putting timing marks on the cam pulleys, to avoid draining oil out to see the timing marks?

When setting the flywheel at TDC on no 1 firing stroke
And both camshafts marks aligned.

I remember that the RH camshaft moves when the old belt is removed.

Has anyone got a diy camshaft locking tool?

Maybe drill a hole in the pulley to fit it?

........I suppose quoted and real world mpg figures vary too.

But filling up only takes a few minutes.

PS Don't get a kitchen off her.
If she can afford a car like that, she must be charging too much.........quite like her car really!

Did he check the range before she bought it?
Seems that quoted/real world electric car range can differ enormously?

He should be able to get there and back in a day, without having to kip in the car?

Two guys in Greater Manchester have Marina parts.
Mostly oily stuff I think.
They might know of a breaker.

Peter Kenny 0161 611 9638

Steve Bowman 0161 303 1393

They are used struts off a late Sprint.
I've never stripped them down.
I presumed they just have yellow bearings at the top?

I read that the old coal fired power stations were on standby recently, due to the large energy demand.

No output from wind farms over the cold spell.......as there hasn't been any wind!

As we are surrounded by the sea, the government don't seem to have considered wave power as an alternative?

Even worse.......drive amongst us!

Gulp!
What mileage?

Had it had its first MoT?

Yes the tyre pressures were a bit low!
But still needs checking out I think.

Some years back, I bought a 33 to strip for parts.

The owner had fitted a bike tyre valve to the reservoir cap.

Get an assistant to use a bike pump to keep pressure whilst bleeding.

Remove cap to top up after each wheel.

Thanks Lou,
Will follow your advice.

Dave

I've got late Sprint front struts/ outboard brakes.

Steering has become quite stiff.

How do I identify its cause?

Could be track rod ends/ upper yellow bearings/ lower ball joints ??

Do you ever use vacuum pumps to bleed brakes?

Also, i thought of a 12v heater to plug into the cigar lighter.........except there isn't one!

Put some additive in my Sud screenwash bag today.

December 1st tomorrow, Winter is coming.

No photos, you get what I mean.

If your tank doesn't turn up..............!!

A few years ago, new Alfa 33 fuel tanks were available from Germany.......which will fit Suds/Sprints
Can't see them now, but you may be able to dig one out?

Paint left over from the BMC Gold Seal days?

Have they advised anything into any hollow sections fro corrosion protection?

The Sud passed its MoT. But the guy told me the brake effort was a bit down on the OSR. He must have good hearing.......told me he could hear a noise there. Turns out the OSR wheel cylinder had a leak. It had started to contaminate the shoes. I've stripped/cleaned it and replaced shoes/cylinders on ...

Interesting about the TS pistons.

Seems like they downgraded the spec from CF1 to CF2 by fitting different pistons?

What about that chocolate brown colour they did?

Must be a rare shight now.